Mild but not invisible wood frames very ripe yet cool and airy dark fruit aromas that speak of earth, violets, underbrush and a hint of menthol that leads to reserved, intense and tautly muscular broad-shouldered flavors that are textured, naturally sweet, sappy and concentrated while being supported by a notably firm but not aggressive tannic spine and excellent length on the balanced and palate staining finish. This should require between 15 to 20 years to arrive at its apogee as it’s noticeably more structured but unlike some less successful ’08s, the phenolics here are quite ripe as the low yields and late picking date are clearly in evidence. This resembles the great 2001 more than a little yet there is even more overall depth of material. In short, this should be truly great in time.
BH 96