The most youthfully reserved but also the most promising of Chartron’s premiers crus is the 2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos du Cailleret, a fine effort that opens in the glass with notes of citrus oil, struck match, crisp green orchard fruit and pastry cream. Medium to full-bodied, tensile and tightly wound, it needs some bottle age to bounce back from its recent bottling, but there’s lots of potential here.

RP 94